Saturday, August 09, 2003
Reflections
A few photos uploaded this time in link format (below). Most 60 to 160K.
Time in Reykjavik is all but at an end. The trip back is via Grimsstadir (Graeme’s Town) and Egilsstadir (Egil’s Town), so the northern route. By the time I get to Egilsstadir I will have driven right round Iceland. I’ll also have chalked up about 6,000 miles on Icelandic roads, of which about a thousand will have been on un-surfaced roads. Plan to visit Dettifoss (waterfall) and Asbyrgi (Europe’s Grand Canyon) from Grimsstadir.
Greenland isn’t going to work. All flights are fully booked, which is rather final. So Greenland waits for another day. Maybe no bad thing - I rather imagine that a short trip to Kulusuk would seem rather inadequate. Better perhaps to plan a trip to Nuuk for sometime (next summer?)
Work
I have 58,450 words of book written. Not bad. In fact pretty much amazing for a few weeks in the summer, given the academic rule of thumb that a book takes a year - though inevitably I’ld have liked to have more done. The preface is also written (another thousand words), and the longish bibliography is done. All told this comes to about 140 pages. I need another 10,000 words or 20 pages.
Perhaps more satisfying than the length is that, Comparative Syntax of Old English and Old Icelandic making some innovative points. Additionally there is material for a couple of articles. All in all not a bad summer’s work, though I’ll have a busy time getting it finished in the autumn. However I think I’ve met the requirements of both the British Academy (sponsors) and Peter Lang (publisher).
Grapevine press are interested in looking at a travel book from me on Iceland. I’ve promised to send a manuscript in September.
Lots of possible spin-offs from this trip. I have contacts to follow up in academe, industry and publishing. I just need some time this autumn.
Witterings
In Britain we hardly know Iceland exists. To the average Brit Iceland is a supermarket selling frozen food. And this ignorance is daft.
First of all Iceland is accessible. Flights are under 3 hours, which makes Iceland as close as Spain or Portugal and closer than Greece. Prices for flights are no longer high now Iceland Express has broken Icelandair’s monopoly. There is no visa requirement, no jabs, and the currency is fully negotiable. Prices are not cheap, but they are not as high as people say either. “Reassuringly expensive” is a good description. Access by car remains problematic because of the journey time, though this might change. The Eimskip cargo-boat service Hull to Reykjavik is scarcely practical at the moment (it takes only a handful of passengers and a couple of cars, the latter in crates) but this might change.
Second Iceland has a very special summer with 24 hours of daylight. The weather changes a lot, and there is no-way anyone is going to bathe in the sea around Iceland (not even Icelanders do this!), but the weather really isn’t all that bad. I might even have a sun tan.
Third Iceland has the only true wilderness in Europe. It is clean, unspoilt, and full of wildlife; it offers volcanoes and geysers, waterfalls. Here I’ve seen Humpback Whale, Great Northern Diver, Barent’s Goldeneye, Harlequin Ducks and lots more.
Fourth Iceland has made a contribution to Western culture disproportionate to its size. The Sagas are world-class literature; Iceland had the earliest functioning post-classical parliament; Icelanders pioneered the northern route to America. Icelandic impact on western though is more significant than perhaps usually realised - yet from the court of James IV of Scots to Wagner, Iceland has had a distinctive input.
The recent marketing of Reykjavik as a party city seems a little unfortunate. Reykjavik cannot want to compete with Amsterdam and Dublin for wild parties.
Facts Britian should know about Iceland:
1) Iceland is not in the Arctic, and is not cold. Okay, I’m not planning to come in January, but honest, it’s not cold.
2) Iceland has the second highest life expectancy in the world and one of the highest standards of living (often quoted as seventh). There is virtually no crime. Education is superb. Iceland is doing something right.
3) Iceland was settled by the Vikings and their Irish wives and slaves (ethnically Icelanders are around two-thirds Viking and one-third Irish). This is two of the main stocks that go into the British mix. Icelanders are mighty similar to Brits (an idea they would hate!) Of the world’s languages, only English and Icelandic have a true th sound. Brits should feel pretty much at home in Iceland.
4) Icelanders discovered Greenland and North America around a thousand years ago. The Greenland colony continued until the fifteenth century, trading with Olafsvik on Snaefellsness. The Greenlanders got their wood from North America. Christopher Columbus spent a winter in Olafsvik some years before he “discovered” America.
5) Snorri Sturlusson is mediaeval Iceland’s outstanding writer, an intellectual and politician. We should know about him! We still have a lot to learn from his work.
tAboveGlymur.jpg
tBreithafjordur.jpg
tDC.jpg
tDCGD.jpg
tGlymurFalls.jpg
tGlymurGorge.jpg
tHelgafell.jpg
tHjalparfoss1.jpg
tKerith1.jpg
tNesjavellir1.jpg
tNesjavellir2.jpg
tBullRiver1.jpg
tEldborg.jpg
tOxarafoss1.jpg
tPuffinsGrimsey.jpg
tStykkisholmur1.jpg
tThingvellir1.jpg
tThingvellir2.jpg
tOxarafoss2.jpg
tOxarafoss3.jpg
tOxarafoss4.jpg
tOxarafoss5.jpg
A few photos uploaded this time in link format (below). Most 60 to 160K.
Time in Reykjavik is all but at an end. The trip back is via Grimsstadir (Graeme’s Town) and Egilsstadir (Egil’s Town), so the northern route. By the time I get to Egilsstadir I will have driven right round Iceland. I’ll also have chalked up about 6,000 miles on Icelandic roads, of which about a thousand will have been on un-surfaced roads. Plan to visit Dettifoss (waterfall) and Asbyrgi (Europe’s Grand Canyon) from Grimsstadir.
Greenland isn’t going to work. All flights are fully booked, which is rather final. So Greenland waits for another day. Maybe no bad thing - I rather imagine that a short trip to Kulusuk would seem rather inadequate. Better perhaps to plan a trip to Nuuk for sometime (next summer?)
Work
I have 58,450 words of book written. Not bad. In fact pretty much amazing for a few weeks in the summer, given the academic rule of thumb that a book takes a year - though inevitably I’ld have liked to have more done. The preface is also written (another thousand words), and the longish bibliography is done. All told this comes to about 140 pages. I need another 10,000 words or 20 pages.
Perhaps more satisfying than the length is that, Comparative Syntax of Old English and Old Icelandic making some innovative points. Additionally there is material for a couple of articles. All in all not a bad summer’s work, though I’ll have a busy time getting it finished in the autumn. However I think I’ve met the requirements of both the British Academy (sponsors) and Peter Lang (publisher).
Grapevine press are interested in looking at a travel book from me on Iceland. I’ve promised to send a manuscript in September.
Lots of possible spin-offs from this trip. I have contacts to follow up in academe, industry and publishing. I just need some time this autumn.
Witterings
In Britain we hardly know Iceland exists. To the average Brit Iceland is a supermarket selling frozen food. And this ignorance is daft.
First of all Iceland is accessible. Flights are under 3 hours, which makes Iceland as close as Spain or Portugal and closer than Greece. Prices for flights are no longer high now Iceland Express has broken Icelandair’s monopoly. There is no visa requirement, no jabs, and the currency is fully negotiable. Prices are not cheap, but they are not as high as people say either. “Reassuringly expensive” is a good description. Access by car remains problematic because of the journey time, though this might change. The Eimskip cargo-boat service Hull to Reykjavik is scarcely practical at the moment (it takes only a handful of passengers and a couple of cars, the latter in crates) but this might change.
Second Iceland has a very special summer with 24 hours of daylight. The weather changes a lot, and there is no-way anyone is going to bathe in the sea around Iceland (not even Icelanders do this!), but the weather really isn’t all that bad. I might even have a sun tan.
Third Iceland has the only true wilderness in Europe. It is clean, unspoilt, and full of wildlife; it offers volcanoes and geysers, waterfalls. Here I’ve seen Humpback Whale, Great Northern Diver, Barent’s Goldeneye, Harlequin Ducks and lots more.
Fourth Iceland has made a contribution to Western culture disproportionate to its size. The Sagas are world-class literature; Iceland had the earliest functioning post-classical parliament; Icelanders pioneered the northern route to America. Icelandic impact on western though is more significant than perhaps usually realised - yet from the court of James IV of Scots to Wagner, Iceland has had a distinctive input.
The recent marketing of Reykjavik as a party city seems a little unfortunate. Reykjavik cannot want to compete with Amsterdam and Dublin for wild parties.
Facts Britian should know about Iceland:
1) Iceland is not in the Arctic, and is not cold. Okay, I’m not planning to come in January, but honest, it’s not cold.
2) Iceland has the second highest life expectancy in the world and one of the highest standards of living (often quoted as seventh). There is virtually no crime. Education is superb. Iceland is doing something right.
3) Iceland was settled by the Vikings and their Irish wives and slaves (ethnically Icelanders are around two-thirds Viking and one-third Irish). This is two of the main stocks that go into the British mix. Icelanders are mighty similar to Brits (an idea they would hate!) Of the world’s languages, only English and Icelandic have a true th sound. Brits should feel pretty much at home in Iceland.
4) Icelanders discovered Greenland and North America around a thousand years ago. The Greenland colony continued until the fifteenth century, trading with Olafsvik on Snaefellsness. The Greenlanders got their wood from North America. Christopher Columbus spent a winter in Olafsvik some years before he “discovered” America.
5) Snorri Sturlusson is mediaeval Iceland’s outstanding writer, an intellectual and politician. We should know about him! We still have a lot to learn from his work.
tAboveGlymur.jpg
tBreithafjordur.jpg
tDC.jpg
tDCGD.jpg
tGlymurFalls.jpg
tGlymurGorge.jpg
tHelgafell.jpg
tHjalparfoss1.jpg
tKerith1.jpg
tNesjavellir1.jpg
tNesjavellir2.jpg
tBullRiver1.jpg
tEldborg.jpg
tOxarafoss1.jpg
tPuffinsGrimsey.jpg
tStykkisholmur1.jpg
tThingvellir1.jpg
tThingvellir2.jpg
tOxarafoss2.jpg
tOxarafoss3.jpg
tOxarafoss4.jpg
tOxarafoss5.jpg
Thursday, August 07, 2003
Whaling
Iceland has announced a resumption of whaling, with a "harvest" of Minke whales. I find this very hard to justify. Killing a whale is a particularly painful business, a form of slaughter we would not accept for farm animals. Additionally it is not economically needed by Iceland, and traditionally most of the meat has ended up in pet food. Does anyone reading this blog know an on-line protest site?
Thanks David for the following pictures of the Humpback Whale we saw:
Thursday
To Thingvellir - probably my favourite place in Iceland. Also the Culture House in Reykjavik.
Wednesday
Spent today in Reykjavik. It is very hard to tire of this city. It is small, tiny by the standards of most capitals, smaller than for example England’s recently designated city of Brighton. Yet there is a tremendous amount of interest in its streets and the Greater Reykjavik area. Started this morning at Arbaer folk museum, then via the University to the National Gallery, and to the old town centre.
A reflection on the exhibits in the folk museum and much else seen in Iceland is that Iceland has made incredible strides since independence in 1944. Prior to the 2WW Iceland was a very poor country - the depression of the 1930s hit it badly, and it was far from prosperous before then. It did do reasonably well economically from hosting British and American troops during the war, but its prospects in 1944 really didn’t look particularly good. Icelanders put fish down as the reason for their economic success, but this hardly seems adequate. Geothermal power is surely part of the explanation - in effect Iceland has free, non-polluting power - while the role of stable, sensible government for nearly six decades has to be considered a factor. Perhaps too it is easier for a small country to make decisions which suit its economy.
A little car glitch today - something as basic as a headlight bulb. I find that the comprehensive set of bulbs Mercedes in Newcastle sold me relates to another model, and I didn’t have a headlight bulb which would fit - so a trip to Mercedes-Benz was needed. Additionally the bulbs are held in with a spring-loaded clip which is fiendish. MB use a special gadget to change them.
More on Icelandic Birds
Brunnich’s Guillimot. I have not seen this one. Browsing the bird books in Eymundson’s bookshop I find that sightings of Iceland are almost exclusively in the West Fjords, and only in certain places there. In effect this is a Greenland bird which is found in those parts of Iceland which are closest to Greenland.
Gyrfalcon. Again not seen. The summer range of this bird is north Iceland only, so no chance of seeing it within day trip distance of Reykjavik. In the middle ages the bird was associated with Greenland, and falconers in Europe got their Gyrfalcons from Greenland, not Iceland - which suggests there were not many of them in Iceland in the Middle Ages.
Barrows Goldeneye. Have seen this one. This bird breeds regularly only on lake Myvatn and the Laxa river (which drains Myvatn) - and regularly nowhere else in the world. There are records of this bird occasionally breeding elsewhere in Iceland, but with little success. Myvatn is not particularly big, and the Barrows Goldeneye there have a lot of competition from other ducks. While I gather this duck is not actually considered to be endangered it is something of a rarity.
Weather
This summer is being reported as the best Iceland has had since the second world war. There are even reports that residents of Reykjavik are getting a suntan, but this is presumably just rumour.
Lunar Landscape
Iceland has got used to being said to resemble the moon. After all this is where the Apollo astronauts trained. But now Iceland has to get used to being told it resembles Mars. NASA are building a research centre at Krafla volcano to investigate the likely nature of life on Mars, as Krafla is believed to resemble Mars.
Coffee
Iceland is doing its bit for South American prosperity by drinking coffee.
Now I drink coffee, and rather a lot of it. I get through a 200g (large) jar of instant in just over a month, and perhaps another 100g a month away from home, say getting on for 4kg per year. My friends tell me I’m a coffee addict. Yet in fact my consumption is an example of exceptional moderation. The average Icelander gets through 12kg a year. So what the heavy Icelandic coffee drinker must get through beggars belief.
It seems that this has been the national drink for centuries. Even in the eighteenth century every farmhouse had a coffee grinder. Today Iceland has discovered quality coffee and café culture. Coffee in Iceland is good. It can also be lethal. It is often strong, and when served after a meal in a restaurant can reach a strength which is almost intoxicating. Maybe in a country that was dry, coffee took the place of alcohol. Italy cannot match this brew. A double espresso in Turin is nothing to the punch delivered by an Icelandic coffee. And there are no little coffee cups here. Coffee is strong, good, smooth, black and strong, and did I say strong? And there are as many free top-ups as can be managed.
Iceland has announced a resumption of whaling, with a "harvest" of Minke whales. I find this very hard to justify. Killing a whale is a particularly painful business, a form of slaughter we would not accept for farm animals. Additionally it is not economically needed by Iceland, and traditionally most of the meat has ended up in pet food. Does anyone reading this blog know an on-line protest site?
Thanks David for the following pictures of the Humpback Whale we saw:
Thursday
To Thingvellir - probably my favourite place in Iceland. Also the Culture House in Reykjavik.
Wednesday
Spent today in Reykjavik. It is very hard to tire of this city. It is small, tiny by the standards of most capitals, smaller than for example England’s recently designated city of Brighton. Yet there is a tremendous amount of interest in its streets and the Greater Reykjavik area. Started this morning at Arbaer folk museum, then via the University to the National Gallery, and to the old town centre.
A reflection on the exhibits in the folk museum and much else seen in Iceland is that Iceland has made incredible strides since independence in 1944. Prior to the 2WW Iceland was a very poor country - the depression of the 1930s hit it badly, and it was far from prosperous before then. It did do reasonably well economically from hosting British and American troops during the war, but its prospects in 1944 really didn’t look particularly good. Icelanders put fish down as the reason for their economic success, but this hardly seems adequate. Geothermal power is surely part of the explanation - in effect Iceland has free, non-polluting power - while the role of stable, sensible government for nearly six decades has to be considered a factor. Perhaps too it is easier for a small country to make decisions which suit its economy.
A little car glitch today - something as basic as a headlight bulb. I find that the comprehensive set of bulbs Mercedes in Newcastle sold me relates to another model, and I didn’t have a headlight bulb which would fit - so a trip to Mercedes-Benz was needed. Additionally the bulbs are held in with a spring-loaded clip which is fiendish. MB use a special gadget to change them.
More on Icelandic Birds
Brunnich’s Guillimot. I have not seen this one. Browsing the bird books in Eymundson’s bookshop I find that sightings of Iceland are almost exclusively in the West Fjords, and only in certain places there. In effect this is a Greenland bird which is found in those parts of Iceland which are closest to Greenland.
Gyrfalcon. Again not seen. The summer range of this bird is north Iceland only, so no chance of seeing it within day trip distance of Reykjavik. In the middle ages the bird was associated with Greenland, and falconers in Europe got their Gyrfalcons from Greenland, not Iceland - which suggests there were not many of them in Iceland in the Middle Ages.
Barrows Goldeneye. Have seen this one. This bird breeds regularly only on lake Myvatn and the Laxa river (which drains Myvatn) - and regularly nowhere else in the world. There are records of this bird occasionally breeding elsewhere in Iceland, but with little success. Myvatn is not particularly big, and the Barrows Goldeneye there have a lot of competition from other ducks. While I gather this duck is not actually considered to be endangered it is something of a rarity.
Weather
This summer is being reported as the best Iceland has had since the second world war. There are even reports that residents of Reykjavik are getting a suntan, but this is presumably just rumour.
Lunar Landscape
Iceland has got used to being said to resemble the moon. After all this is where the Apollo astronauts trained. But now Iceland has to get used to being told it resembles Mars. NASA are building a research centre at Krafla volcano to investigate the likely nature of life on Mars, as Krafla is believed to resemble Mars.
Coffee
Iceland is doing its bit for South American prosperity by drinking coffee.
Now I drink coffee, and rather a lot of it. I get through a 200g (large) jar of instant in just over a month, and perhaps another 100g a month away from home, say getting on for 4kg per year. My friends tell me I’m a coffee addict. Yet in fact my consumption is an example of exceptional moderation. The average Icelander gets through 12kg a year. So what the heavy Icelandic coffee drinker must get through beggars belief.
It seems that this has been the national drink for centuries. Even in the eighteenth century every farmhouse had a coffee grinder. Today Iceland has discovered quality coffee and café culture. Coffee in Iceland is good. It can also be lethal. It is often strong, and when served after a meal in a restaurant can reach a strength which is almost intoxicating. Maybe in a country that was dry, coffee took the place of alcohol. Italy cannot match this brew. A double espresso in Turin is nothing to the punch delivered by an Icelandic coffee. And there are no little coffee cups here. Coffee is strong, good, smooth, black and strong, and did I say strong? And there are as many free top-ups as can be managed.
Thursday
To Thingvellir - probably my favourite place in Iceland. Also the Culture House in Reykjavik.
Wednesday
Spent today in Reykjavik. It is very hard to tire of this city. It is small, tiny by the standards of most capitals, smaller than for example England’s recently designated city of Brighton. Yet there is a tremendous amount of interest in its streets and the Greater Reykjavik area. Started this morning at Arbaer folk museum, then via the University to the National Gallery, and to the old town centre.
A reflection on the exhibits in the folk museum and much else seen in Iceland is that Iceland has made incredible strides since independence in 1944. Prior to the 2WW Iceland was a very poor country - the depression of the 1930s hit it badly, and it was far from prosperous before then. It did do reasonably well economically from hosting British and American troops during the war, but its prospects in 1944 really didn’t look particularly good. Icelanders put fish down as the reason for their economic success, but this hardly seems adequate. Geothermal power is surely part of the explanation - in effect Iceland has free, non-polluting power - while the role of stable, sensible government for nearly six decades has to be considered a factor. Perhaps too it is easier for a small country to make decisions which suit its economy.
A little car glitch today - something as basic as a headlight bulb. I find that the comprehensive set of bulbs Mercedes in Newcastle sold me relates to another model, and I didn’t have a headlight bulb which would fit - so a trip to Mercedes-Benz was needed. Additionally the bulbs are held in with a spring-loaded clip which is fiendish. MB use a special gadget to change them.
More on Icelandic Birds
Brunnich’s Guillimot. I have not seen this one. Browsing the bird books in Eymundson’s bookshop I find that sightings of Iceland are almost exclusively in the West Fjords, and only in certain places there. In effect this is a Greenland bird which is found in those parts of Iceland which are closest to Greenland.
Gyrfalcon. Again not seen. The summer range of this bird is north Iceland only, so no chance of seeing it within day trip distance of Reykjavik. In the middle ages the bird was associated with Greenland, and falconers in Europe got their Gyrfalcons from Greenland, not Iceland - which suggests there were not many of them in Iceland in the Middle Ages.
Barrows Goldeneye. Have seen this one. This bird breeds regularly only on lake Myvatn and the Laxa river (which drains Myvatn) - and regularly nowhere else in the world. There are records of this bird occasionally breeding elsewhere in Iceland, but with little success. Myvatn is not particularly big, and the Barrows Goldeneye there have a lot of competition from other ducks. While I gather this duck is not actually considered to be endangered it is something of a rarity.
Weather
This summer is being reported as the best Iceland has had since the second world war. There are even reports that residents of Reykjavik are getting a suntan, but this is presumably just rumour.
Lunar Landscape
Iceland has got used to being said to resemble the moon. After all this is where the Apollo astronauts trained. But now Iceland has to get used to being told it resembles Mars. NASA are building a research centre at Krafla volcano to investigate the likely nature of life on Mars, as Krafla is believed to resemble Mars.
Coffee
Iceland is doing its bit for South American prosperity by drinking coffee.
Now I drink coffee, and rather a lot of it. I get through a 200g (large) jar of instant in just over a month, and perhaps another 100g a month away from home, say getting on for 4kg per year. My friends tell me I’m a coffee addict. Yet in fact my consumption is an example of exceptional moderation. The average Icelander gets through 12kg a year. So what the heavy Icelandic coffee drinker must get through beggars belief.
It seems that this has been the national drink for centuries. Even in the eighteenth century every farmhouse had a coffee grinder. Today Iceland has discovered quality coffee and café culture. Coffee in Iceland is good. It can also be lethal. It is often strong, and when served after a meal in a restaurant can reach a strength which is almost intoxicating. Maybe in a country that was dry, coffee took the place of alcohol. Italy cannot match this brew. A double espresso in Turin is nothing to the punch delivered by an Icelandic coffee. And there are no little coffee cups here. Coffee is strong, good, smooth, black and strong, and did I say strong? And there are as many free top-ups as can be managed.
Thanks David for the following Humpback Whale pictures:
To Thingvellir - probably my favourite place in Iceland. Also the Culture House in Reykjavik.
Wednesday
Spent today in Reykjavik. It is very hard to tire of this city. It is small, tiny by the standards of most capitals, smaller than for example England’s recently designated city of Brighton. Yet there is a tremendous amount of interest in its streets and the Greater Reykjavik area. Started this morning at Arbaer folk museum, then via the University to the National Gallery, and to the old town centre.
A reflection on the exhibits in the folk museum and much else seen in Iceland is that Iceland has made incredible strides since independence in 1944. Prior to the 2WW Iceland was a very poor country - the depression of the 1930s hit it badly, and it was far from prosperous before then. It did do reasonably well economically from hosting British and American troops during the war, but its prospects in 1944 really didn’t look particularly good. Icelanders put fish down as the reason for their economic success, but this hardly seems adequate. Geothermal power is surely part of the explanation - in effect Iceland has free, non-polluting power - while the role of stable, sensible government for nearly six decades has to be considered a factor. Perhaps too it is easier for a small country to make decisions which suit its economy.
A little car glitch today - something as basic as a headlight bulb. I find that the comprehensive set of bulbs Mercedes in Newcastle sold me relates to another model, and I didn’t have a headlight bulb which would fit - so a trip to Mercedes-Benz was needed. Additionally the bulbs are held in with a spring-loaded clip which is fiendish. MB use a special gadget to change them.
More on Icelandic Birds
Brunnich’s Guillimot. I have not seen this one. Browsing the bird books in Eymundson’s bookshop I find that sightings of Iceland are almost exclusively in the West Fjords, and only in certain places there. In effect this is a Greenland bird which is found in those parts of Iceland which are closest to Greenland.
Gyrfalcon. Again not seen. The summer range of this bird is north Iceland only, so no chance of seeing it within day trip distance of Reykjavik. In the middle ages the bird was associated with Greenland, and falconers in Europe got their Gyrfalcons from Greenland, not Iceland - which suggests there were not many of them in Iceland in the Middle Ages.
Barrows Goldeneye. Have seen this one. This bird breeds regularly only on lake Myvatn and the Laxa river (which drains Myvatn) - and regularly nowhere else in the world. There are records of this bird occasionally breeding elsewhere in Iceland, but with little success. Myvatn is not particularly big, and the Barrows Goldeneye there have a lot of competition from other ducks. While I gather this duck is not actually considered to be endangered it is something of a rarity.
Weather
This summer is being reported as the best Iceland has had since the second world war. There are even reports that residents of Reykjavik are getting a suntan, but this is presumably just rumour.
Lunar Landscape
Iceland has got used to being said to resemble the moon. After all this is where the Apollo astronauts trained. But now Iceland has to get used to being told it resembles Mars. NASA are building a research centre at Krafla volcano to investigate the likely nature of life on Mars, as Krafla is believed to resemble Mars.
Coffee
Iceland is doing its bit for South American prosperity by drinking coffee.
Now I drink coffee, and rather a lot of it. I get through a 200g (large) jar of instant in just over a month, and perhaps another 100g a month away from home, say getting on for 4kg per year. My friends tell me I’m a coffee addict. Yet in fact my consumption is an example of exceptional moderation. The average Icelander gets through 12kg a year. So what the heavy Icelandic coffee drinker must get through beggars belief.
It seems that this has been the national drink for centuries. Even in the eighteenth century every farmhouse had a coffee grinder. Today Iceland has discovered quality coffee and café culture. Coffee in Iceland is good. It can also be lethal. It is often strong, and when served after a meal in a restaurant can reach a strength which is almost intoxicating. Maybe in a country that was dry, coffee took the place of alcohol. Italy cannot match this brew. A double espresso in Turin is nothing to the punch delivered by an Icelandic coffee. And there are no little coffee cups here. Coffee is strong, good, smooth, black and strong, and did I say strong? And there are as many free top-ups as can be managed.
Thanks David for the following Humpback Whale pictures:
Wednesday, August 06, 2003
Partial blog update
SUNDAY
Dropped David off at Keflavik airport and returned via the Blue Lagoon. The day a scorcher by Icelandic standards (18 degrees), and I´´m getting used to the temperatures here to the extent that that felt hot. Britain can keep its heatwave.
MONDAY
A work day. Also a bank holiday in Iceland. Out to Keflavik airport to pick up Damian. Getting familiar with that route.
TUESDAY
Gullfoss and Geysir, plus Kerith and Skalholt. Skalholt is the southern bishopric of Iceland, effectively Iceland´s Canterbury. The church is new - in Icelandic fashion churches are rebuilt every couple of generations - but there´s an interesting archaeological site and museum
A comprehensive list of birds seen on David´s visit to Iceland:
Great Northern Diver
Red-throated Diver
Slavonian Grebe (Horned Grebe)
Fulmar
Gannet
Shag
Cormorant
Whooper Swan
Greylag Goose
Mallard
Gadwall
Wigeon
Tufted Duck
Scaup
Eider
Harlequin Duck
Barrow's Goldeneye
Long-tailed Duck
Red-breasted Merganser
White-tailed Eagle
Merlin
Oystercatcher
Ringed Plover
Golden Plover
Turnstone
Dunlin
Purple Sandpiper
Red-necked Phalarope
Redshank
Whimbrel
Black-tailed Godwit
Snipe
Great Skua
Arctic Skua
Black-headed Gull
Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
Glaucous Gull
Common Gull
Kittiwake
Arctic Tern
Razorbill
Guillemot
Puffin
Black Guillemot
Feral Pigeon
Meadow Pipit
White Wagtail
Wheatear
Redwing
Snow Bunting
Redpoll
Starling
Raven
A not bad total (even very good) of 55 species.
Red necked Phalarope and Barrows Goldeneye
SUNDAY
Dropped David off at Keflavik airport and returned via the Blue Lagoon. The day a scorcher by Icelandic standards (18 degrees), and I´´m getting used to the temperatures here to the extent that that felt hot. Britain can keep its heatwave.
MONDAY
A work day. Also a bank holiday in Iceland. Out to Keflavik airport to pick up Damian. Getting familiar with that route.
TUESDAY
Gullfoss and Geysir, plus Kerith and Skalholt. Skalholt is the southern bishopric of Iceland, effectively Iceland´s Canterbury. The church is new - in Icelandic fashion churches are rebuilt every couple of generations - but there´s an interesting archaeological site and museum
A comprehensive list of birds seen on David´s visit to Iceland:
Great Northern Diver
Red-throated Diver
Slavonian Grebe (Horned Grebe)
Fulmar
Gannet
Shag
Cormorant
Whooper Swan
Greylag Goose
Mallard
Gadwall
Wigeon
Tufted Duck
Scaup
Eider
Harlequin Duck
Barrow's Goldeneye
Long-tailed Duck
Red-breasted Merganser
White-tailed Eagle
Merlin
Oystercatcher
Ringed Plover
Golden Plover
Turnstone
Dunlin
Purple Sandpiper
Red-necked Phalarope
Redshank
Whimbrel
Black-tailed Godwit
Snipe
Great Skua
Arctic Skua
Black-headed Gull
Herring Gull
Lesser Black-backed Gull
Great Black-backed Gull
Glaucous Gull
Common Gull
Kittiwake
Arctic Tern
Razorbill
Guillemot
Puffin
Black Guillemot
Feral Pigeon
Meadow Pipit
White Wagtail
Wheatear
Redwing
Snow Bunting
Redpoll
Starling
Raven
A not bad total (even very good) of 55 species.
Red necked Phalarope and Barrows Goldeneye
Monday, August 04, 2003
Just odds and ends to post on the blog today. I´ll go back in a few days and sort them. At least that is the intention.
SSSHHHH!
Don’t tell the Icelanders! Iceland is NOT an arctic nation.
Of course this begs the question what an arctic nation might be. Probably the simplest statement is that people live north of the arctic circle, north of 66.33 degrees. By this definition Norway, Sweden and Finland are all arctic nations. About a third of the length of Norway is north of the circle, and there are some sizeable towns there – Narvik and Tromso for example. Sweden and Finland have a firm presence north of the circle. Russia is an arctic nation, with cities well north of the circle: Archangel and Murmansk among others. Canada has much of its territory north of the circle (though hardly anyone living there) while even the USA through Alaska has a not so small hold north of the circle. Uniquely Greenland is the only nation with more land north of the circle than south. All these can claim to be arctic nations. But poor old Iceland has only the most tenuous toe-hold in the north. Iceland does claim an uninhabited rock way north of the circle (and more to the point lots of fish in the seas around), but the only proper land north of the circle is the island of Grimsey.
And it is not even all of Grimsey. Just half of this little island lies north of the circle. The population count is 92, and it so happens that the village in which they live lies a few hundred yards south of the circle. The post-office almost makes it over the line, but even this is 20 yards or so south. In Iceland no-one habitually goes to bed in the arctic. Maybe a tourist occasionally pitches a tent north of the circle, but for arctic residents that is it.
Not that the folk of Grimsey seem to have let this bother them. The island depends on fishing, which in Icelandic terms means that the state wraps it in cotton wool. Fish is important in Iceland. The island has a ferry three-times a week to the mainland, a four-hour crossing on a smallish boat. And it does have daily flights to Akureyri – assuming that the little planes have decent weather and can scare the birds of the Grimsey landing strip. The island has its road, which approaches a mile in length, and it appears that every islander has a car, and is determined to clock up some miles even if that means running back and forwards on a mile of road. The ferry can take a car or two, with a winch to load them on the boat. Apparently the people of Grimsey pass their time playing chess, and the island has produced several masters. I guess 92 people have to do something to pass the time in the long winter.
Nor does Iceland have arctic weather. Greenland does. There is a case for arguing that Cape Farewell, Greenland’s southernmost point and well south of the arctic circle, is nonetheless arctic. The weather is a tad cold, there be polar bears there, and the terrain is so forbidding that no-one has managed to build any roads. But Iceland is far milder.
Icelanders grumble about their winters. No wonder. Three-months of unrelieved darkness, a winter that can stretch to 9 months, and raw, freezing temperatures cannot be fun. Yet even so Iceland is surprisingly mild for its latitude. There are towns in Italy that have colder average January temperatures than Reykjavik. Virtually all of the American continent this far north has a white-out for the whole winter. This is more-or-less the latitude of the world’s coldest place in north-east Siberia. The gulf stream that warms Britain and so much of northern Europe does its bit for Iceland, so that in relity Iceland is actually not all that cold – at least it could be much, much colder. But if you should come in January don’t forget your thermals!
Icelanders point out that their capital is the most northerly in the world. They are almost right. Greenland’s Nuuk is not strictly a capital, as Greenland is still part of the kingdon of Denmark. And even if Greenland goes its own way, Reykjavik still claims to be north of Nuuk. Nuuk considers its centre to be at its centre, while Reykjavik considers its north to be its centre. And by a few seconds Reykjavik trumps Nuuk. But more to the point Russia has big cities in the north, far bigger than Reykjavik.
Plants and animals here are northern – and this might be the best claim to being considered an arctic nation. Polar bears make it across on the ice flows every few years and would be native if the Icelanders didn’t shoot them. This is necessary self-defence – the polar bear is one of very few animals that will routinely prey on man, and no Icelander wants to be a polar bear’s lunch. There are arctic foxes, and the bird-life includes many northern species. Yet even here the conclusion is far from simple. Many of Iceland’s birds and plants can be found in the Scottish Highlands, and even further south. And there are Greenland birds that rarely or never come to Iceland.
In summer the arctic ice wall is reached about 200 miles north of Akureyri, and typically extends from Greenland to Jan Mayen and Spitzbergen. In winter, ice regularly girdles the north and west coasts, though not since the hard winters of the late 1940s has ice encircled Iceland. Reykjavik harbour is now open throughout the winter. In the European mini-ice age of 1200-1900 Iceland probably could claim to be arctic. But with the warmer weather we are now all enjoying this seems unconvincing.
GLYMUR
This waterfall is over 600 feet, and the tallest in Europe. It is situated in a deep gorge, and is absolutely vertiginously spectacular!. 600 feet is a lot. I think Beachy Head in Sussex is in the region of 300 feet, though I haven´t checked. There are Fulmars nesting in the gorge, with the result that you can look down hundreds of feet onto a circling bird. The gorge is very narrow, which somehow emphasises the depth.
Lonely Planet is less than enthusiastic about this fall. Maybe the point is that the site is as impressive as the fall itself. This is Europe´s highest fall, and also one of the deepest gorges. It is the gorge that is as special as the fall.
It is about an hour and a half´s climb up to the fall, and there is nothing resembling a proper path.
HUMPBACK WHALE
I have to return to this one – the sighting in Faxa Floi really was very special indeed. The whale was a youngster, maybe six months old, and it is because he was a youngster that there was a whale in the shallow waters of Faxa Floi. The life expectancy of humpback whales is ninety-five years. This one had an impressively high spout (a complete contrast with the Minke Whales). When first spotted he was effectively resting, occasionally diving. Later he seemed to wake up, pushed the whole of his tail into the air and twisted it, and a few minutes later made a deep-dive.
HIMBRINIThe Great Northern Diver has been quite a feature of the last few days. The Icelandic name – Himbrini – is onomatopeic, a reasonable version of its curious call. GND seems a little heavy as a name, while the American Common Loon is less than ideal – in Iceland this bird is scarcely common.
nearGlymur.jpg
SSSHHHH!
Don’t tell the Icelanders! Iceland is NOT an arctic nation.
Of course this begs the question what an arctic nation might be. Probably the simplest statement is that people live north of the arctic circle, north of 66.33 degrees. By this definition Norway, Sweden and Finland are all arctic nations. About a third of the length of Norway is north of the circle, and there are some sizeable towns there – Narvik and Tromso for example. Sweden and Finland have a firm presence north of the circle. Russia is an arctic nation, with cities well north of the circle: Archangel and Murmansk among others. Canada has much of its territory north of the circle (though hardly anyone living there) while even the USA through Alaska has a not so small hold north of the circle. Uniquely Greenland is the only nation with more land north of the circle than south. All these can claim to be arctic nations. But poor old Iceland has only the most tenuous toe-hold in the north. Iceland does claim an uninhabited rock way north of the circle (and more to the point lots of fish in the seas around), but the only proper land north of the circle is the island of Grimsey.
And it is not even all of Grimsey. Just half of this little island lies north of the circle. The population count is 92, and it so happens that the village in which they live lies a few hundred yards south of the circle. The post-office almost makes it over the line, but even this is 20 yards or so south. In Iceland no-one habitually goes to bed in the arctic. Maybe a tourist occasionally pitches a tent north of the circle, but for arctic residents that is it.
Not that the folk of Grimsey seem to have let this bother them. The island depends on fishing, which in Icelandic terms means that the state wraps it in cotton wool. Fish is important in Iceland. The island has a ferry three-times a week to the mainland, a four-hour crossing on a smallish boat. And it does have daily flights to Akureyri – assuming that the little planes have decent weather and can scare the birds of the Grimsey landing strip. The island has its road, which approaches a mile in length, and it appears that every islander has a car, and is determined to clock up some miles even if that means running back and forwards on a mile of road. The ferry can take a car or two, with a winch to load them on the boat. Apparently the people of Grimsey pass their time playing chess, and the island has produced several masters. I guess 92 people have to do something to pass the time in the long winter.
Nor does Iceland have arctic weather. Greenland does. There is a case for arguing that Cape Farewell, Greenland’s southernmost point and well south of the arctic circle, is nonetheless arctic. The weather is a tad cold, there be polar bears there, and the terrain is so forbidding that no-one has managed to build any roads. But Iceland is far milder.
Icelanders grumble about their winters. No wonder. Three-months of unrelieved darkness, a winter that can stretch to 9 months, and raw, freezing temperatures cannot be fun. Yet even so Iceland is surprisingly mild for its latitude. There are towns in Italy that have colder average January temperatures than Reykjavik. Virtually all of the American continent this far north has a white-out for the whole winter. This is more-or-less the latitude of the world’s coldest place in north-east Siberia. The gulf stream that warms Britain and so much of northern Europe does its bit for Iceland, so that in relity Iceland is actually not all that cold – at least it could be much, much colder. But if you should come in January don’t forget your thermals!
Icelanders point out that their capital is the most northerly in the world. They are almost right. Greenland’s Nuuk is not strictly a capital, as Greenland is still part of the kingdon of Denmark. And even if Greenland goes its own way, Reykjavik still claims to be north of Nuuk. Nuuk considers its centre to be at its centre, while Reykjavik considers its north to be its centre. And by a few seconds Reykjavik trumps Nuuk. But more to the point Russia has big cities in the north, far bigger than Reykjavik.
Plants and animals here are northern – and this might be the best claim to being considered an arctic nation. Polar bears make it across on the ice flows every few years and would be native if the Icelanders didn’t shoot them. This is necessary self-defence – the polar bear is one of very few animals that will routinely prey on man, and no Icelander wants to be a polar bear’s lunch. There are arctic foxes, and the bird-life includes many northern species. Yet even here the conclusion is far from simple. Many of Iceland’s birds and plants can be found in the Scottish Highlands, and even further south. And there are Greenland birds that rarely or never come to Iceland.
In summer the arctic ice wall is reached about 200 miles north of Akureyri, and typically extends from Greenland to Jan Mayen and Spitzbergen. In winter, ice regularly girdles the north and west coasts, though not since the hard winters of the late 1940s has ice encircled Iceland. Reykjavik harbour is now open throughout the winter. In the European mini-ice age of 1200-1900 Iceland probably could claim to be arctic. But with the warmer weather we are now all enjoying this seems unconvincing.
GLYMUR
This waterfall is over 600 feet, and the tallest in Europe. It is situated in a deep gorge, and is absolutely vertiginously spectacular!. 600 feet is a lot. I think Beachy Head in Sussex is in the region of 300 feet, though I haven´t checked. There are Fulmars nesting in the gorge, with the result that you can look down hundreds of feet onto a circling bird. The gorge is very narrow, which somehow emphasises the depth.
Lonely Planet is less than enthusiastic about this fall. Maybe the point is that the site is as impressive as the fall itself. This is Europe´s highest fall, and also one of the deepest gorges. It is the gorge that is as special as the fall.
It is about an hour and a half´s climb up to the fall, and there is nothing resembling a proper path.
HUMPBACK WHALE
I have to return to this one – the sighting in Faxa Floi really was very special indeed. The whale was a youngster, maybe six months old, and it is because he was a youngster that there was a whale in the shallow waters of Faxa Floi. The life expectancy of humpback whales is ninety-five years. This one had an impressively high spout (a complete contrast with the Minke Whales). When first spotted he was effectively resting, occasionally diving. Later he seemed to wake up, pushed the whole of his tail into the air and twisted it, and a few minutes later made a deep-dive.
HIMBRINIThe Great Northern Diver has been quite a feature of the last few days. The Icelandic name – Himbrini – is onomatopeic, a reasonable version of its curious call. GND seems a little heavy as a name, while the American Common Loon is less than ideal – in Iceland this bird is scarcely common.
nearGlymur.jpg
